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• 转载：陈彤

  作者：时间的玫瑰 发布时间：2010-07-02 11:38:08

         新浪要我推荐一本书，要求必须跟爱情有关，而且最好是跟最纯最美的爱情有关。我说我推荐六六的吧——因为我理解，最纯最美的爱情必须是食人间烟火的。

      喜欢六六的书，是因为她的书里不仅有爱情，而且有女人的成长，女人的成长与爱情是密切相关的，越是纯美的爱情越要经受现实的考验。一碰到现实就四分五裂的爱情，叫什么纯美？最多叫不堪一击。

      六六谈论的爱情以及书中的女人，都是有血有肉的，比如她说“婚姻关系其实跟菜市场买菜讨价还价差不多，每个人都有自己的底线，在有共同的作成一笔买卖的愿望下，就会你进一点，我退一点。”“两人都僵着买卖就要完蛋”。看上去，似乎不够浪漫，不够唯美，但单刀直入——“婚姻里，花是虚的，对你的情意是实的；一句温柔体贴的话是虚的，替你分担家务是实的；表扬你是虚的，信任你是实的；礼物是虚的，把工作全交给你是实的。”

      所以，六六说，“女人吧，别老避实就虚。透过表象看实质，拨开尘土现璧玉，这才是正理。”

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• The Symbols in Araby

  作者：Leo Wu 发布时间：2007-05-14 16:18:28

  In literature, a symbol is a thing that stands for or suggests something else by reason of relationship, association, convention or accidental resemblance, especially a visible sign of something invisible. ［1］ Sometimes, symbols are created by the artists in their works. And by using them, the artists can interpret the objective world in a subjective perspective. So symbolism is an important means for a writer to create excellent works.

  As in the novel Araby, James Joyce used large amounts of symbolic imageries to create a typical setting, help the plots develop and indicate the hero’s characteristics. By analyzing the symbols in Araby, we can have a deep insight into the story and know the main theme in Dubliners better. And the symbols are as follows:

  1.

  Blind

  The North Richard Street was “blind”, and “I” used a blind to hide myself from being seen by Mangan’s sister. These are the two “blind” used in the novel.

  The first one is an adjective, which means that the street is closed at one end. As it’s a blind street, people living in the street are difficult to communicate with the ones outside. So it indicates the station of un-open up of Dublin as well as Ireland. But the people living in the street are all pleased with the situation. ［2］ So the boy wished to get away from it. This helps the plot develop.

  As for the second “blind”, it is a noun. By using the blind, Mangan’s sister couldn’t see me. However, the blind also prevented me from seeing her clearly. This indicates that the boy’s dream was only a childish dream (Mangan’s sister); it is hard to be realized for “I” only “watched it from a blind”.

  2.

  Mangan’s sister

  Mangan’s sister was the girl to whom “I” had paid lots of attention; “I” watched her secretly; “I kept her brown figure always in my eye”; and when “I” was doing stranger prayers that “I” didn’t understand, her name sprang to my lips.

  These are all telling that Mangan’s sister is the boy’s dream, or his idol. But in the whole novel, the girl’s name hasn’t appeared. Why? Because what “I” know about my dream is only something superficial. My dream is just like the temple in the air, forming in the boy’s mind without any deep thinking or any deep understanding. “I” liked Mangan’s sister just as I liked The Memoirs of Vidocq, a book I found in the priest’s remains---“I liked the last best because its leaves were yellow.”

  This agrees with the boy’s age and his experience. He was a boy on the way of growing up and forming his own views of the society. But he was still too young to have a good understanding of the real world. Although we know that his dream could be easily broken, the most important thing is that he had a dream. This is also important for the Irishmen who were under the control of the British government then.

  3.

  The North Richmond Street

  The street was blind. Besides, the surroundings were all unpleasant. My house was full of “musty air”. The houses in the street “had grown sombre”. When my aunt and “I” went marketing, we were “jostled by drunken men and bargaining women, amid the curse…”

  As James Joyce said, the main theme of the novels in Dubliners was paralysis. And the condition of the North Richmond Street was a good proof for it. But in the whole Ireland as well, all the streets were almost the same. So Joyce turned to voluntary-exile to get rid of the unpleasant thing in Ireland. So do the boy in the novel. He had a strong hatred for the street, as is demonstrated by the sentence “I was thankful that I could see (the street) so little.”

  So the street was a symbol for the whole Ireland.

  4.

  Araby

  In the novel, the word “Araby” plays an important role, as it is the title word. And Araby is “a splendid bazaar” where Mangan’s sister recommended me to go.

  Araby is an old name for Arab. Besides, in the novel, it “cast an Eastern enchantment over me”. So Araby is a place with the Oriental fragrance in Dublin. And we can also see that the boy had a strong desire to make a trip there. So we can conclude that Araby is a dream new world for the boy, as Mangan’s sister is a fairy who guild the boy there.

  However, it seems that the other people, especially the elder people living in the street paid little attention to my desire. And my uncle just “answered me curtly” when “I” told him my plan to Araby. And he also went home too late that night to let me go to Araby on time. So this indicates again that Dubliners as well as the Irishmen were all paralyzed. They paid little attention to their dreams. ［3］ And they were well intentioned but narrow in the views and blind to higher values. This is what Joyce felt disappointed of.

  To our delight, my aunt indeed cared about my wish for Araby and blamed my uncle for being late. This shows that Joyce want to hold his wish for the future of Ireland. And when “I” got a florin from my uncle, “I” went to Araby immediately. However on my way there, the condition seemed to be a bit unpleasant. The train was “deserted”, “bare” and it had “an intolerable delay”. Even when the train started “slowly”, “it crept onward among ruinous houses”. These all indicate the difficulties one will confront on his way to the dream place. But anyhow at last “I” arrived at Araby late at night.

  But Araby, the dream new world for the boy, turned out to be “darkness” and “silence”. And the people who served me at the stall spoke to her customer “out of a sense of duty”. This all disappointed me.

  And there is a casual dialogue between two men and a woman in the novel. This dialogue had no special setting or surprising ending, but it was so real that when we read the words, we can imagine the scene in our mind. ［4］ But it is the dialogue, in addition with the other things the boy met in Araby, that disappointed me. So this is an allusion of the life of the young adults in Dublin who own the characteristic of ignorance and conventionalism.

  One the whole, the bazaar Araby indicates that even when the Irishmen were chasing their dream, they would be disappointed just because of their own society and their blind to the bright future. So Joyce became sad about the reality.

  5.

  The priest

  At the beginning of the novel, we know that a priest had been a tenant of the boy’s home. “He (the priest) had been a very charitable priest”, and he “had left all his money to the institutions and the furniture of his house to his sister”. So in this way, the priest was indeed a good citizen of Dublin.

  Besides, form the names of the books that “I” found, (The Abbot, The Devout Communicant and The Memoirs of Vidocq), of which one is about religion and two are about exploration, we can see that the priest was also an imaginative person. So he had given his life to both piety and flights of imaginations.

  However, the priest had gone, just like his “rusty bicycle-pump”, deserted and forgotten by other Dubliners. If all the good citizens had all gone away, how could Dublin be a good city? So the priest is a symbol of ht vital past, a contrast to the “blind” and paralyzed present. It tells us that the freedom of the Ireland has gone and people then had no passion for a bright future.

  On the other hand, the priest was also a symbol for religion belief because of his special status. In fact from the analysis before, we know that the priest was a man full of imagination. But in fact, a priest should be conventional. So this imaginative priest indicates Joyce’s doubt of the belief of Catholicism. ［5］

  6.

  Other subtle Symbols

  Besides the major symbols in Araby, there are still some subtle ones that could not be ignored.

  At the beginning of the novel, we can see “a central apple tree” in a “wild garden behind the house”. On seeing the words “Apple tree”, we can immediately think of the myth between Adam and Swan in the Garden of Eden. In this novel, the apple tree id a symbol for the boy’s first love as well as a wish to try something new. ［5］ But the tree was in a “wild garden behind the house”. The condition was so oppressed that the tree might not grow up robustly. This means that a trial for a new thing wasn’t encouraged by the Irish society, and the boy’s love towards Mangan’s sister couldn’t breed some results.

  Also at the beginning, “light form the kitchen windows had filled the areas”. (There are also some other descriptions of the light, such as “Some distant lamp or lighted window gleamed over me.”) From the analysis before, we know that the dark blind street is a symbol for Ireland. So here the light becomes a symbol for the country’s future. However, the light was from the kitchen window. How dim, how subtle! So Joyce here indicates the gloomy future for his own country.

  Besides, the “chalice” is mentioned when “I” went marketing with my aunt: “I imagined that I bore my chalice safely through the throng of foes.” Here the “chalice” is a symbol for the belief of Catholicism.

  James Joyce is famous for the using of “stream of consciousness” method in his works. But he is also good at setting proper background, creating symbols and using allusions. From the novel Araby, we can see a lot of symbols were created by Joyce and they located everywhere in the texts.

  However different people will read Joyce’s works form different perspective. So all the symbols listed above are just my own understanding of the novel Araby with the help of my teacher Miss Gao Fen and the works listed below. And I want to quote Professor Derek Attridge’s words to end my paper: “Joyce’s writing can reveal sources of fascination and exhilaration which you were not expecting to find, and if you feel at times that Joyce is laughing at you just as much as you are laughing at him, you have begun to appreciate the delightfully unsettling energies of his art.”

  Notes:

  ［1］：邓绪新，英语文学概论，武汉：武汉大学出版社，2002 P155-158

  ［2］：张秀清，《现实与梦想的差距——〈阿拉比〉的现实主义与象征主义双重层面解读》，福建行政学院福建经济管理干部学院学报，2004年增刊，P 160-162

  ［3］: 张建军,《从无知朦胧走向成熟--谈〈阿拉比〉中的象征主义手法》，江苏教育学院学报(社会科学版)，2004年l1月，P107—108

  ［4］：戴从容，乔伊斯小说的形式实验，北京：中国戏剧出版社，2005，P42-43

  ［5］：李漫萍，《寓意隽永的象征— 试论乔伊斯短篇小说的象征艺术》，广东教育学院学报，P27-31：2002年 11月

  Works cited:

  ［1］: the textbook of our course.

  ［2］: 詹姆斯 乔伊斯［爱尔兰］著，孙梁等译：都柏林人，上海：上海译文出版社，1984

  ［3］: Derek Attridge, The Cambridge Companion to James Joyce, Shanghai: Shanghai Foreign Language Education Press, 2000

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• 对化妆品配方设计的窥豹一斑

  作者：penddy 发布时间：2021-02-28 23:02:21

  这本 2016 年出版的

  《化妆品配方设计7步》

  是 2009 年出版的

  《化妆品配方设计6步》

  的更新版，新版的这本评价数还不够生成评分，原来版本的评分人数也只有 19 人，但评分高达 8.5 分。

  因为近期看的相关书籍中，张丽卿提到的观点是，成分固然重要，但加上配方才可以，所以特意找了下配方相关的书籍，根据评分和内容简介，找到了这本一读。

  读完后，发现这又是一个深坑，不在于化妆品配方设计本身的逻辑有多么复杂，而在于这么多的成分，不同成分本身的特性，成分之间的搭配，又是一个复杂的系统，读完后一时间感觉下一步不知道该如何下手了。

  对于普通人的，有可能是找品牌 + 成分配合更靠谱？毕竟配方设计看起来熟悉的难度，相比于成分更高。

  如果有相关经验，也欢迎分享。

  回到这本书，从我自己的阅读感受，聊聊这本书在讲什么，让想要看的人快速有个了解，从而判用于辅助断自己是否需要看。

  这本书其实就是在讲做一个化妆品应该有哪些部分构成，每一部分如何选材。

  有一点像做饭，比如做一个回锅肉，你可能需要的有如下几部分：

  主食材：肉

  配料：蒜苗、红辣椒、绿辣椒

  调料：豆瓣酱、料酒、葱、姜

  其它：油

  知道了这些，剩下还涉及肉怎么选，豆瓣酱用哪一种，份量如何，油几分热度等等。

  而做一个化妆品，则需要如下几部分：

  功效体系

  ：是化妆品的目标，比如保湿、美白、抗衰老、祛斑、防晒、染发、烫发、育发的功能。

  乳化体系

  ：是膏霜和乳液的基本框架，决定了产品的稳定性。

  增稠体系

  ：这一部分用于改进化妆品稳定性、视觉触觉感受，对于膏霜和乳液有这一步。

  抗氧化体系

  ：用于提高产品的保质期，防止产品变质

  防腐体系

  ：防止微生物污染和二次污染，延长保质期

  感官修饰体系

  ：为了群众喜好，更好看、更好卖

  安全保障体系

  ：降低过敏发生，降低使用风险

  每一部分都会有很多种方案、原料，同时还要考虑到这些不同的体系的成分都需要混合到一起，所以还有其中如何避免冲突，在配合到一起后还能达到原有目标的设计。

  乳化体系

  中，乳化体主要就是 W/O （油包水） 和 O/W （水包油）两种基本类型。

  在化妆品中油相原料又分为了油脂、蜡类、烃类、脂肪酸、脂肪醇和脂类，水相原料则主要是保湿剂、水溶性增稠剂、防腐剂、蛰合剂以及其它水溶性活性物。

  在乳化体系中，需要根据目标选择水相和油相原料，然后通过特定类型的乳化机，达到达到乳化目标。

  增稠体系

  是通过加入增稠剂达成目标，其原料分为了水相增稠剂、油相增稠剂和降黏剂。

  抗氧化体系

  则是因为化妆品的成分因为光照或与空气中的氧气接触产生了氧化，表现一般是产品变酸，抗氧化是为了避免化妆品产生酸败，即为了防止化妆品中不饱和油脂的氧化作用。

  抗氧剂又包含了抑制自由基链式反应发生的链终止剂和组织链式反应发展的过氧化氢分解剂。抗氧化剂同样也有油溶性和水溶性的，因此配方中也需要考虑合适的抗氧剂。

  防腐体系

  主要是为了通过防止产品受微生物污染来保护产品，延长产品的寿命。大多数的防腐剂容易在酸性和中性环境中产生作用，季铵盐类在 pH 值大于 7 时有效，所以要根据酸碱度选择合适的防腐剂。

  感官修饰体系

  则纯粹是为了好看和好卖设计，一般包括调色和调香，调香就是加入香精的过程。

  功效体系

  中《化妆品卫生监督条例》把化妆品分为了普通化妆品和特殊用途化妆品（育发、染发、烫发、脱毛、美乳、健美、除臭、祛斑、防晒等）两大类。

  这一部分是本书介绍中，基础介绍的相对充分的部分，也属于比较有意思的部分。会介绍到功效体系中相应功效的原理和解决方案。

  保湿化妆品

  皮肤水分代谢的机理如下：

  

  基于这个机理，皮肤保湿就需要从如下几点出发：

  封闭体系：防止皮肤中水分蒸发到空气中去

  保湿剂：吸收空气中的水分;同时也可以阻止皮肤的水分散失

  减少挥发：功效成分与皮肤中的游离水结合使之不容易挥发

  抗衰老化妆品

  抗衰老主要是延缓皮肤的功能和器质性改变，主要包括皱纹、干燥、起屑、松弛、色斑等。

  在抗衰老领域，包含了三种衰老的机理：

  

  在「自由基-非酶糖基化衰老学说机理」中，要抗衰老，要从下面 3 方面入手：

  阻止自由基氧化反应

  在美拉德反应中，组织西佛碱生还吃呢过

  阻止 DMCs 反应形成色素

  

  在「自由基衰老学说机理」中，要抗衰老，要从下面 3 方面入手：

  保护皮肤，防止外部污染带来细胞产生自由基

  通过抗氧化成分,防止自由基产生

  通过有效成分,捕获已形成的自由基

  

  在「光老化学说机理」中，要抗衰老，要从下面 3 方面入手：

  防止紫外线损伤纤维细胞,造成胶原蛋白和弹性胶原蛋白减少

  防止紫外线损伤表皮朗格汉斯细胞

  防止紫外线诱导线粒体DNA 损伤,引导致自由基增多

  虽然有三种学说，但基本也都是由如下几样构成，比如：

  保护皮肤受外界刺激

  阻止紫外线对皮肤的伤害

  清除多余的自由基

  对皮肤修复和补充营养

  ...

  因此，在抗衰老体系中，主要就是对四类体系做组合：

  清除自由基类：比如 SOD、维生素 E等

  吸收紫外线类：比如二苯酮-3、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷等

  细胞修复类：比如胶原蛋白、燕麦多肽等

  保湿类：比如 α-甘露聚糖、透明质酸、海藻糖等

  35 岁以上的年龄的人清除自由基能力比较差，所以清除自由基成分比例需要更高，二十几岁的人主要是细胞的修复。

  美白成分化妆品

  

  基于黑色素形成的机理，可以从 4 个方面入手：

  抑制酪氨酸酶的活性：比如熊果苷、曲酸、甘草提取物等

  捕获已形成的自由基：比如SOD、维生素 C、维生素 A 等

  添加防晒成分,减少自由基的形成：比如二苯酮-3、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷等

  分解已生成的黑色素：烟酰胺、果酸、维生素 C 磷酸酯钠等

  安全保障体系

  是为了缓解皮肤敏感导致的皮肤刺激和皮肤过敏现象，常见的过敏源中，防腐剂占了 30%~40% 的比例，香料占了 20%~30% 的比例，表面活性剂大概占 15% 的比例。

  特殊用途的化妆品体系

  中，介绍了祛斑、防晒、染发、烫发、育发等，其中防晒的机理如下，一种通过放射防晒，一种通过吸收紫外线变成热量或可见光，从而减少伤害。

  

  紫外线对皮肤的伤害包括:晒红、晒黑和光老化：

  晒红的机理是紫外线照射皮肤后使皮肤各层组织发生生理及病理变化。

  晒黑是指皮肤受紫外线照射后引起的皮肤黑化现象。

  光老化是由于长期的日光照射导致的皮肤衰老现象,是由反复日晒而致的累积性损伤。

  UVA 防护指数( protection factor of UVA,PFA) 是通过使用和未使用的时间之比的值，对比的是最小持续性黑化红斑量，即辐射后2~4h在整个照射部位皮肤上产生轻微黑化所需要的最小紫外辐照剂量或最短辐照时间。

  PFA 值只取整数部分

  PFA 小于 2 ,无 UVA 防护效果

  2 ≤ PFA ≤3，PA+

  4 ≤ PFA ≤7，PA++

  PFA ≥8，PA+++

  防晒指数SPF( sun protection factor) 也是通过使用和未使用的时间之比的值，对比的是用紫外线照射皮肤后最小红斑量 MED，防晒标准的标识

  SPF < 2，不标识防晒效果

  2 ≤ SPF ≤30，标识 SPF 值

  SPF > 30 且减去标准差后仍大于 3 ,标识为 SPF30+

  整体来看，这本书虽然读完后对于非专业人士的意义在于进一步了解化妆品是如何产生的，以及化妆品里面到底都有什么，分别目的是什么。

  以及从这本书，可以了解成分的多样性和配方的复杂性，从而对于想更多了解化妆品的配方的人，要对难度有心理预期。

  （完）

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• 喜欢

  作者：繁华无度 发布时间：2013-08-19 22:22:35

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• 老了依然“愤青”的王夫之

  作者：如意吉祥 发布时间：2014-01-22 21:07:52

  从《宋论》和《读通鉴论》这两书来看，王夫之对历朝的政治都不满意，观点也多有偏激之处，老了还能保持这种“愤青”精神，实属难得。不过“愤”出水平来是不容易的，王夫之靠的是他的思想、见识和学问，明末清初三大思想家之一并不是浪得虚名。

  明朝灭亡，外族入侵，无情的现实刺激得王夫之开始反思历史，希望在历史中找出原因，前事不忘后事之师，《读通鉴论》其实也是王夫之的《资治通鉴》。王夫之反对朱熹的理学，认为李贽的学说是异端邪说，他写《读通鉴论》也有摧异端求正理的理想在内，目的是为了“适于用”，经世济用，这和朱熹的谈性说理只说不做有着根本的不同。王夫之对历朝的政治都不满意，他所谓的“治道之极”就是“上稽尚书，折以孔子之言”，赵普半部论语治天下让人莫测高深，王夫之的《尚书》加《论语》治天下看起来好像和赵普没什么分别，不过时代是变迁的，这两本老古董还能适用么？王夫之通过他的两部史论告诉你是可以的，只要定下统治大纲，下面的斟酌衡量都不是大问题，“法”可以按实际需要制定，人才只要选好了宰相，下面的人才都不成问题。

  王夫之对外族深恶痛绝，恨不得画一条楚河汉界来分开夷夏，恨不得像对待禽兽一样对于外族人。这种观点在现在无疑是不适用了，而且元朝和清朝早就已经归于中国的范畴了，都是少数民族嘛。不过当时的人不这么认为的，夷狄进占中原就像近代日本入侵中国一样引人愤慨。对于外族与中华之别，王夫之认为，每个地方都有他的气候环境、风土人情，什么地方住什么人，中原地区自然住的是中国人，外族人不能离开他们的塞外边疆入侵到中原来，中国人也不必占领塞外地方，不然的话文化土地和本性不相吻合，必然会引起混乱，自我毁灭。就像一个老虎跑到河里去讨生活，那不是自取灭亡么。

  王夫之喜欢翻案，古代的那些名臣名将很多都被王夫之贬成一坨屎，或者至少也是缺点多多问题不少，在他眼中没有完美的将相与皇帝。王夫之还有一个经典的论断，就是权臣比外戚、宦官专权造成的社会动荡、祸害士民要轻的多，或者根本就没有社会动荡。比如司马氏夺了曹氏的政权，政权是变了，但是祸害不流于百姓，流血事件不多，况且天下又不是一姓的天下，改朝换代如果都能这样子，那该是天下苍生多大的福利啊。相对来说，宦官和外戚专权，他们的文化程度以及见识都相当低下，他们专权仅仅是满足自己的私利，因此流弊下来，国家政治瘫痪，整个天下都会大乱。

  王夫之还有很多有意思的观点，读过此书就能领略到。再说说王夫之的行文，可以说这是最难懂的文言文之一了，他用的词不难懂，整行句子，每个字都认识，但连起来就不知道是什么意思了。有时候一个句子不知道他在什么时候转折，又在什么时候完成，加上王夫之又喜欢在说事实之前说一段道理，一开始就给你一段莫名其妙的理论，更让你恼火的恨不得摔书。此书的校注者就表示给此书标点真是头疼，其实标点以后，我们读者表示还是很头疼。

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